Showing posts with label Zen Dog Training Online. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Zen Dog Training Online. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Drama Diva Queen, Featuring Capall

Meet Capall!

Capall is a 2 year old Bouvier DeFlanders! He's a bundle of love, with a big heart, big paws, and big teeth! He has a habit of getting "mouthy" when playing with his family. Our job was to teach him that polite dog's don't put their teeth on humans!

With dogs over 5 months, we recommend you do not allow any teeth on humans. Some people like to rough house with their dog, however, a child playing with a mouthy dog might jerk her hand away, causing a scratch which may be mistaken for a vicious bite! Also, a dog who learns to communicate with his teeth could take it too far and hurt someone!

Dogs are very aware of what their teeth are touching -- they can feel even the slightest graze of a single tooth touching human skin. We use this to our advantage and teach that -- no teeth to human contact will be tolerated by playing a game called Drama Diva Queen!

Drama Diva Queen is a shun game. To play -- start a regular play session with your dog. 

If he nips or bites you (any bit of a tooth touches your skin) -- say "Ouch!" and dramatically turn your back! 

Shun your dog -- withhold all attention -- break any eye contact (don't even look at him) young children can cross their arms and turn their body away. Do not touch or scold your dog, just wait silently.

After 5-10 seconds return to playing with him as before. Repeat as necessary.

If you play this game correctly most dogs will 'get it' in as soon as 2-3 training sessions!

Some tips on playing Drama Diva Queen:
  • A drag line or tether are effective management tools to use during this game. They prevent your dog from trying to follow you or jump up while you are shunning him. 
  • Try this game 3-5 times in a row. If your dog isn't getting the message, you may need to try a more advanced game like Out of the Pack, which you can find on Zen Dog Training Online
  • Allow minor playbiting with puppies under 5 months, play biting is an important learning stage. 
  • Use volume control -- for minor playbites a low level "Ouch" may be in order, but harder bites should result in a more dramatic "OUCH!" and you might result in you leaving the room for 30 seconds!

For more tips on how and when to use Drama Diva Queen and Out of the Pack, please visit Zen Dog Training Online

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

A bit on Housetraining, featuring Appa

Meet Appa!

Appa is a 4 month old Havanese puppy with a fluffy coat and a zest for life! He's still adjusting to the rules of his new home, including proper house training

There are many important things to consider when house training your new puppy. For a complete list (and helpful videos) visit: www.ZenDogTrainingOnline.com better yet, set up an appointment with a Zen Dog Trainer!

In the meantime, here's an important thing to consider regarding using Puppy Pee Pads. 

 
Puppy Pads/Training Pads/Pee Pads: If you ultimately want to train your dog to go outside -- then do not use them! It's OK to leave one for a young puppy in his confinement area, especially when leaving him alone for longer then he can "hold it". However, if you want to teach your new puppy to eliminate outdoors, then make sure that he goes outdoors as often as possible!

Encouraging a puppy to go on a pad indoors (and outside too) only confuses your dog to your rules. Dog's have a powerful instinct to keep their den clean. Essentially, allowing your dog to go indoors goes against his natural tendency to perceive your home as his den and not pee inside the house.

Every time your puppy goes inside, it confuses him to your rules. Only use pee training pads if you are planning on using them for the rest of your dog's life!

Think about it like this: It's winter time in cold Boston area, you then ask Appa, would you rather use your pee pad or go outside in the snow? It's the human equivalent of asking Appa if he would rather use the indoor plumbing (toilet) or go outside in cold outhouse! 

If you had the choice, you would probably continue using the indoor bathroom because it's more comfortable and that's what you grew up doing. If you teach Appa to go inside first, then it will be way harder to convince him to start going outside later. 

To learn more about house training, using treats, and positive reinforcement, visit Zen Dog Training OnlineAlso, check out our Housetraining eBook and other online resources!

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Socialization to Touch, featuring Ernie


Meet Ernie!

Ernie is a 12 week old Field Spaniel, he's not shy in the slightest and is as friendly as can be! There are lot's of things to work on with a new puppy. One area people often forget is to teach their dog to tolerate human touch. At Zen Dog Training we do this with the game Socialization to Touch.

What:

Socialization to Touch is time spent teaching your puppy to be accustomed to any human touch. Even uncomfortable touch like being handled by the vet or groomer.

Why:
This game is great at preventing problems in the future, like aggression, and is important for emergencies. Not only should your dog should be OK with uncomfortable touch at the vet and groomer, imagine when you need to to pick a thorn out of his paw, cut his nails, or even brush his teeth!

How:
Pick up and touch your dog every day. Have friends (and kids) pick him up and hold your puppy in their arms like a baby. Give him treats yourself or have your friends give him treats as he accepts being touched, picked up and held by others.

At home, you should be more systematic. Hold him with his head facing out and his belly facing up. Your puppy might fight this and wiggle around, but don't let him go. Take a Yoga Breath. If you are relaxed, your puppy will relax.  Again use treats to make a positive association to human touch.

Over time you can touch different body parts as you hold and treat him. Think about what he might have to tolerate in the future: touch his paws and between his toes, his teeth, belly, legs, ears, etc. Remember: You should keep feeding him tasty treats throughout the process.

Tip: Play for only a few minutes at a time and keep feeding him treats! You want him to really love being touched!

For more on Socialization to Touch, Love, Yoga Breath, and other puppy training games, visit Zen Dog Training Online

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Impulse Control, Featuring Vinnie

Meet Vinnie!

It's a bird! It's a plane! No, it's Vinnie, and she's running straight for us on the couch!

This spunky 5 year old English Bulldog's owners have a baby on the way -- so it is important for Vinnie to re-learn the house rules before the baby comes! Just imagine Mom and Baby quietly cuddled on the couch, when out of nowhere rambunctious Vinnie decides to join them -- it's an accident waiting to happen!

Now, imagine a dog who politely waits for your cue to join you on the couch. Zen Dog Training has a solution for this and the answer is quite simple and very effective -- Nothing for Free!

Nothing for Free is a relationship-changing game which teaches her that the fun of the couch is controlled by you! Up until now, Vinnie has learned that she controls the couch, jumping up on it whenever she pleases!

Nothing for Free is a game that can also be played with food, your affection, and other things your dog finds fun! For a full explanation of when and how to play, visit www.ZenDogTrainingOnline.com. Here are some tips for teaching your dog Nothing for Free with the couch!

-Always Ask for a Sit before calling your dog up on the couch. Use a release word like, "OK" to invite her up.

-If she jumps on the couch without waiting for your permission, Interrupt her by using your Interrupt marker word, "Hey!" and gently grab her collar, then take her off the couch.

-Over time, you can Ask for an extended Sit/Stay before inviting her on the couch.

To your dog, coming up on the couch should be a privilege, and Nothing for Free will teach her just that!

For more activities to add to your Nothing for Free program, and more on our 3-Step-System: Ask, Shun, and Interrupt, please visit www.ZenDogTrainingOnline.com!


Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Leash Step, featuring Chip


Meet Chip!

Chip is a 2 year old doxie mix who is tremendously cute and showered with love in his home. However, he is also fearful, particularly with children and joggers on walks. Chip’s owners adopted him when he was 9 months old, and soon realized that his fear barking and nipping was trouble.  Chip was in need of some Zen Dog Training! 

Teaching Chip there is nothing to be afraid of when strangers pass by during walks is a great method to preventing aggression. We started the training plan by making sure to be extra aware of our surroundings. We don't want to get caught off guard by someone and end up with a scared, barking and lunging dog.

We made sure his owners weren't making things worse by trying to correct a scared dog or holding the leash too tightly. Leash tension can translate into feeling of nervousness. The dog might think, "My owner is nervous -- could it be that person running by? Maybe I should be on guard!" Nervousness can turn to fear, and if not addressed turn into aggression.

A method we use when stopping to talk with a friend on the street, is Leash Step, stepping on the leash while keeping no tension on your dog’s neck. The reason this is better than just simply holding the leash is because your tight grip might cause tension on the leash.

A Leash Step will not create tension yet it can quickly help stop a dog from lunging at any people passing by, which, in Chip's case can mean the difference between preventing a bite or an injured, angry jogger!

Use leash step when waiting to cross the street or in the elevator to prevent your dog from jumping up or running into traffic. However, it is important to never leash step in a way that traps a scared dog. Allow uncertain dogs to hide behind your legs or make distance between himself and a scary person, place, thing or other dog.
  Management and prevention are key in quickly solving these kinds of problem behaviors. For more information on Leash Step and Shy / Fearful Dogs, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Using a Confinement Area, featuring Monroe


Meet Monroe!

Monroe is a 13 week old Puggle mix with a lot of things in life to love; his new family, his bed, his treats, and the couch (which he isn’t supposed to go on)! When you bring a new mischievous puppy into your house, it's often hard to teach them our rules!

Zen Dog Training helped Monroe quickly learn the rules of house and rules of the world outside with an In Home Visit. Successful puppy training depends on having the proper Management Tools. With a new puppy full of innocent curiosity, a confinement area is a must!

A confinement area is a small, gated off, puppy-proof area where your dog can be restricted from wandering unsupervised. You should find a room with easy-to-clean floors and decide how best to puppy proof. For smaller or younger dogs an exercise pen or plastic play area works great!

In some cases we put up baby gates around the kitchen (a high-traffic area). It helps to remove books or anything low to the ground. Be careful with wooden furniture, wires -- remove anything tempting for a puppy who loves to explore the world with his mouth!

Confinement Areas bring many benefits. They prevent mischief by restricting your puppy to an area without too many things for him to destroy. They also prevent house-training accidents because we can more easily watch him. Finally, mistakes can be quickly cleaned and easy to see since they are limited to just one room.

Having a confinement area also helps teach independence, as soon as you bring a new puppy home you should start leaving him alone in his  confinement area for short intervals of time while you are home to get him used to not being the center of attention all the time. 

Finally, having a confinement area is a MUST if you have small children or other animals, like cats. Play can be limited to the confinement area and if rough puppy behavior gets out of hand -- small children can simply leave the room!

The idea is to encourage good behaviors by preventing them in the first place! Monroe now stays in his confinement area at times when it is difficult to monitor him, like: when answering the door, getting ready for work, or cooking dinner.
The best part is that housetraining, home alone training and even rough play with children can be managed with little effort from our part! 

For more information on Confinement Areas, Management Tools, and Puppy Training, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

My Walk, featuring Sully

Meet Sully!

He's a puppy Labradoodle who is growing fast and pulls hard on walks. If walking on a leash is a challenge now, it will be much harder when he's a full grown dog! Sully's owners often take him on walks with the baby in a stroller so if Sully thinks he controls the walk, it might be dangerous for the baby!

A game we call My Walk can mean the difference between a frustrating experience and a care free outing. To teach Sully how to walk on leash, we imagine that a tight leash means "red-light" and we stop the walk. A loose leash is a "green-light" and the walk continues. This teachs Sully that -- his pulling makes the walk stop!

The trick to this game is noticing every time Sully reaches the end of the leash. The instant he starts to pull, we say "UGH" and stop walking! 

Once Sully makes the decision to make the leash loose again (walk back a step), we say, "YES." Using clear sounds and words helps him understand what we want. Remember: if leash is loose -- continue to walk at a fun, brisk pace!

If Sully sits down, it's OK to slowly step back to encourage him to come back a step and make the leash loose. This is important because the behavior you want to reinforce is walking! It is essenital to continue walking and not stop and sit down every few minutes.

This simple overview is nice, however, to learn all the rules and tricks that make walking your dog easier, see My Walk, on Zen Dog Training Online.

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

How to Hold the Leash During Walks, featuring Penny



Meet Penny!

Penny is as sweet as they come. She is a gentle, lovable, cuddly 8 year old chocolate lab with owners who give her all that love right back. It wasn’t until they moved to the city, that they realized Penny had a problem. She pulled hard on walks. In fact, she pulled so hard, she even knocked her owner to the ground! 

In a case like this, we teach a solution called My Walk; a game designed to show Penny she must listen to the rules of the person holding the leash. The game is pretty easy to learn, anytime Penny pulls on the leash, the walk stops. Doing this teaching teaches Penny that she doesn't lead us on walks. It's "my walk" and she doesn't get what she wants by pulling.  

Learning how to handle and hold the leash on walks is the foundationIt is especially important to hold the leash correctly considering Penny's past history with dangerously pulling so hard.

In order to prevent falling over, we hold the leash with both hands and stand with our feet shoulder width apart and knees slightly bent. The idea is to use our center of gravity (our core) for strength. When we stop, we take a grounded stance, essentially, instead of using your arms, stopping the force of the pull with your entire body. 

Additionally, if we hold the leash with both hands and rest our arms on our body, we can depend less on our shoulders and more on having good balance and a strong foundation when she starts to pull.

It takes practice but if you are conistent she'll learn who’s walk it really is: it's your walk - not her's! 
 
For a complete explaination on  How to Hold the Leash and My Walk, including how to interrupt unwanted behaviors and how to walk a dog who doesn't want to walk - please visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Thursday, February 21, 2013

When to Start Dog Training, featuring Brody



Meet Brody!

Look in the dictionary under the word "cute," and you should find Brody’s picture! Brody is a 9 week old Boston terrier pup who's too cute for words! His owners made the right move and called us immediatly after bringing him home.

Why is starting early so important? If you look through the eyes of a brand new puppy, who was just taken away from him home, him Mom and litter mates -- you'll see the world can be a scary place if you don't know what to expect. It is important to mention that the first few weeks of your puppy’s life will determine whether or not he grows up to become a well-adjusted adult. This is why at first puppy socialization is more important than teaching commands like Sit, Down and Stay.

For a new puppy, typical city life, a car driving down the street, the UPS driver or even your crazy Uncle Gordon -- might be scary! Like any puppy who just left his mom and litter mates, a young puppy may be wary or fearful of new people, places and things.

That is why we need to be proactive and make the world a less-scary place for our dogs, with lots of socialization. To socialize your dog play Treat For Confidence, a game where we identify things that upset your dog. The game is to act calm and use treats to help our dog cope with new "scary" experiences.

Soon, your dog will associate formally scary things with something good, like a tasty treat! It is so important to do this early on in your puppy's life. Remember: the socialization period typically ends at the 13 week! In other words, the ideal time to expose your dog to everything you want him to be comfortable with as an adult is between the 8th and 13th weeks.

Many people wait too long before getting their dog used to city life. Set your puppy up to succeed by getting him accustomed to all the noises, sights and sounds of the outside world before the socialization period ends. It's not too late! Dogs under 6 months are still ideal candidates for more socialization.

For more information on When to Train, Socialization, and Treat for Confidence, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Bringing Treats on Walks, featuring Chance

Meet Chance!

Chance is an alert 2 year old cattle dog mix who just loves his owners, but that doesn’t stop him from trying to take control during walks. Chance gets a lot of his exercise off-leash at a local park but tends to not pay attention and disappears when he gets the chance! We needed to teach him that it pays to stay close to his owners off-leash, that's why Chance’s owners must bring treats on walks.

Bringing a variety of different value treats on walks will teach Chance that it literally pays to listen! Practicing calling his name and surprising him with an extremely high value treat when he comes will teach him to be on high alert when someone calls his name.

There are a few tricks to remember. Most importantly, you have to actually remember to bring the treats with you! It's also great if you bring 2-3 different kinds of treats in your treat bag so you can reward better actions with higher value treats. This way you can keep it interesting and save the higher-value treats for rewarding really good behaviors.

Food is the dog equivalent of money to humans. Would you go to work if you were not going to get paid?! If you won the lottery and had a huge weekly paycheck would you even work at all? Teaching your dog that good things happen when he listens to you will help him understand that it pays to listen! 

For more information on Treats on Walks and Treat Bags, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

More On Early Intervention Training.


As mentioned in an earlier postEarly Intervention Training is intended to address your puppy’s age-specific development issues before working on any obedience training goals.  You have a limited window of opportunity to prep your pup for a lifetime of stable and healthy interactions with the world and its inhabitants. And don't forget the importance of socialization; Touch is an extension of that.

Instinctively, dogs don’t allow other animals to hold them against their will. However, your dog may need to be groomed, and all dogs need to visit the veterinarian. Being patient and still while a stranger pokes and prods him is not so easy for your dogUse treats to gradually and gently teach your dog to be okay with mildly uncomfortable touch and make these experiences stress free for both you and your dog.

Teach your puppy to accept mild restraint and welcome any human touch by massaging and petting him daily.  Try to relax your hands and body, then take a deep breath to encourage your dog to chill. Use lots of treats to ensure this becomes a positive experience.

For small dogs, start by holding them your arms like an infant and periodically say “Relax” while you hold them. Play "Vet" with your dog by gently massaging your dog’s ears, head, temples, shoulders, chest, legs, paws, foot pads, toes, nails, tail, etc. If he struggles, say “Eh-eh!” and wait for him to calm down before continuing. Again, use LOTS of treats!
 
Once your dog is at ease with the first stage or if your dog is a bigger breed, gently place them on the floor, roll them over onto his side and massage in the same manner on the floor.  Make sure it's a good time to play this game with your pup.  A not so great time, for instance, is when he first wakes up and is full of energy!  

For more information on Early Intervention Training and Touch, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Why Should You Use an Exercise Pen?

A lot of the time, our clients already are using crates for housetraining their pups.  We also encourage people in the "Zen Dog Pack" to also put a exercise pen (or ex-pen) into play.

An ex-pen is a collapsible, portable pet enclosure made of wire, plastic or mesh panels that opens up into a rectangular, circular or oblong playpen for dogs.  It's a great tool to use for training, indoor containment — at home and while traveling — and makes housetraining easier.

Let's talk about using an ex-pen for housetraining first.  The portability of the ex-pen is something to really exploit here.  Let's say your puppy has fantastic bladder/bowel control in her crate; place her crate inside the ex-pen with the crate door open so she can move freely from her cozy crate to her ex-pen.  Now, under your watchful eye, you can teach her that her ex-pen is an extension of her crate and is another area to keep unsoiled.  Rather than leaving her crated for long periods of time, use the ex-pen to give your puppy more controlled, supervised freedom.

Ex-pens are also excellent for containment.  While you're teaching your puppy the rules of your home — don't gnaw on the coffee table, don't steal the dirty laundry, don't tug on the TV power cord — why not use an ex-pen to create a safe-puppy zone?  Instead of running from room to room after her, plop your pup into her ex-pen with some favorite toys, preferred chews and a comfy cushion.  

Stop bratty behaviors!  When your friends come over for a movie marathon, prevent your puppy from jumping up by teaching her to sit in her ex-pen before coming out to say hello.  If you're playing Tug-of-War in her ex-pen and she gets too amped up after a round or two, rather than getting frustrated, calmly leave your puppy alone in her ex-pen.  In both scenarios, she'll quickly learn what she needs to do in order to hang out with people.

Think about both your puppy's needs and your home layout before buying an ex-pen.  A lot of ex-pens can be reconfigured into large-scale room barriers, which are incredibly useful for open-plan homes.

For more information about Housetraining and Tools for Training, please visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Photo from Rover Pet.

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

What is Early-Intervention Training?

Early-intervention training addresses your puppy’s age-specific development issues before working on any obedience training goals.  Trainers use this to  determine whether or not your expectations of your puppy are realistic. We also want to prepare your dog for life with humans and to build their confidence, so they don't resort to more instinctual types of behaviors, such as biting or resource guarding.  

Remember, dogs do not operate with the same kind of "moral compass" that we humans use.  Dogs aren't able to manipulate or spite you... they simply do what works!! I know that many of us consider our dogs to be members of the family; it's important that we remember that our pets aren't people, and expecting them to behave as if they are is setting you and your pup up for disappointment or worse.  Behaviors like peeing on your new rug or nipping your hand as you hold food works for a puppy.  It's up to you to teach your dog that some of those behaviors just don't work for you.

The focus of training dogs 3-4 months old — and younger — should be socialization, not obedience. These are lessons that will stick with your dog for the rest of their life.  Teach your dog that even though the outside world can be loud and unpredictable, it’s a happy and fun place he shouldn’t fear.

This can be done by staying calm and using treats to help your puppy make positive associations with people of all sizes and ages, cars and bikes, other animals, and all things loud and noisy.  At this young age, puppies are very impressionable and easily accept new things, but this openness to new experiences doesn’t last forever! For socialization to be a success, it must occur before your puppy is six months old. The idea is to expose your puppy to new, nonthreatening, positive situations and people now, and to increase the likelihood that he will be a comfortable and confident adult!

Your top priority should be your puppy’s daily socialization. This process will take both time and effort, but is of critical importance — especially for puppies under 4 months!!! Take them with you to new places: friends’ homes, children’s school, the hardware store, the dry cleaners, the bank…  Expose them to a variety of people and environments as often as you can. Let your puppy meet men and women, the elderly and the young, children and babies, people in hats and men with beards. Don’t forget about cats, birds and other animals, or loud or strange noises like a door slamming or a bus rumbling by!  Take your dog to the vet, to your groomer or kennel. Once you get there, give him lots of treats for no reason other than getting him used to going to these places.

Helpful tips:
  • Never force a situation to the point where your puppy becomes frightened.  If he appears unsure, reassure him calmly and matter-of-factly, and then go on.
  • Always be sure your dog is safe and that he has a positive experience. Allow him to investigate and approach people, places and things at his own pace.
  • A tasty treat can do wonders in changing a fearful situation or person into a great experience!
  • Be proactive. Teach your dog to feel confident and safe with the noisy, busy, fast-paced world we live in!
When socializing your puppy with other dogs, use your discretion! Find out whether the dogs your puppy meets are fully vaccinated and properly socialized themselves. Make sure older dogs are friendly and accepting of your puppy’s uninhibited, frisky advances. An unexpected attack at a young age can cause future phobias.  If you’re unsure of a situation or another dog, it’s okay to pick up your dog and walk away.

Last but not least, try not to coddle your dog or pick him up all the time. Puppies are adorable and the most fun to snuggle with so this is understandable difficult but  whether you’re answering the doorbell, meeting other dogs, meeting new people… Whatever you’re doing, just let your dog experience the world on his own four feet!  

For more information on Early Intervention Training and Socialization, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Xena the Couch Surfing Standard Poodle.

Meet Xena!

Xena is one classy lady. She is intelligent and collected, but exuberant and friendly when warranted. All in all she is one rather well behaved poodle. We met with her owner for a general training session, rather than for something specific though, as with any dogs, Xena had her quirks... Turns out Ms. Xena is quite the couch hog! If her owners settled down for a nice evening, Xena would hop right up with them and take up exactly as much space as she wanted — which ended up leaving very little room for her owners. This is a behavior we see all the time, and told Xena’s owner that we had a simple, easy solution for it.  Xena's "mom" said:
“But I like it!”
This is also a behavior we see all the time. One of the most common questions we get from clients is “Should our dog be allowed on the furniture?” What is nice about this question is that there really isn’t a right or wrong answer! The better question would be: “Do you like to have your dog on the couch with you?” If you asked a group of dog trainers whether or not their dogs are allowed on the furniture a majority of them would likely answer “Yup!” (And not a small number would even admit to letting their dogs sleep on the bed!) Some people don’t want to have the dog on the couch, but other owners enjoy having the company — especially on a cold New England night.
We tell clients that it is perfectly acceptable to curl up on the couch with their dogs — but we have a set of rules we recommend. We don’t want your dog to jump up anytime they wish. Make it a privilege; your dog is only allowed on the couch when you give permission. This will not only prevent unwanted couch hogs, but also allow you to have company when you want to, and even use the sofa as a reward for good behavior! This is especially useful when playing Rewarding With Love.
By implementing a few simple rules you can reclaim your couch while keeping your furry heater by your side!

For more information on Rewarding with Love, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Bon Appétit, Let ME Eat!

This gorgeous gal is Layla, the friendliest yellow Lab you could ever meet.  Don't be suckered by her adorable-ness — this girl's a beggar... at the dinner table, that is.

Mealtimes can be challenging for dogs, especially those who've made a hobby of scooping up tidbits food they've found under the table.  Layla's "dad" just needed her to relax in her pen while he prepped and ate his dinner.

Our goal was to teach Layla that when her dad was eating, she not only had to behave, she had to entertain himself.  If your dog is a beggar, let him know that whining and pawing at you at the table isn’t the way to get attention!  Teach him that he's being rather rude. Show your dog that the only mealtime behavior you respect is politely waiting for you to finish eating.

With Layla, we first tried to outsmart her by using a tether.  A tether is an indoor leash that you clip to your dog’s collar with one end and attach
the other to something solid and heavy that your dog can’t move, like your living room sofa.  At mealtimes, it’s best to tether your dog to something far from wherever you’re eating.  In other words, we weren't going to tether Layla to the coffee table when her owner's friends came over with a pizza to watch the game.

Another technique we discussed for Layla is using a crate to contain her or a baby gate to separate her from where her dad eats.  No matter what you works for you — crating, separating or tethering — give your dog something to do while you eat.  Bully sticks and other long-lasting chew toys are great things to give your dog.  Sweeten the deal by trying a few things out, identifying your dog’s favorite and using that exclusively at mealtimes.  This way, your dog will be excited when it’s time for you to eat!

Something else to consider is scheduling your dog’s mealtimes at the same time as yours.  If you do this, just remember 99% of dogs eat faster than most people do. Food acquisition devices (like the Busy Buddies made by Premier) are fantastic since your dog has to nose, paw and move these toys around in order for kibble and treats to fall out.  A huge extra bonus of using food acquisition devices is that playing with these toys is mentally stimulating to dogs — wouldn't it be incredible if your dog got tired just from eating dinner?

If your dog finds using a food acquisition device to be confusing, teach him how it works.  Get down on the floor together, bat the toy around and let your dog see (and lick up) all the delicious morsels that fly out of it.  He’ll get the hang of it, and soon you’ll have a dog who loves it when you eat!


For more information on dining around your dog, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Help! My Dog Chews EVERYTHING!

It's a question we get all the time: "How do I make my dog stop chewing on X, Y, and Z??" The truth of the matter is that dogs are naturally inclined to chew. Dogs explore the world with their mouths the same way we explore and investigate with our hands. They also chew when left home alone because it's something they enjoy doing! The problem comes when your dog decides that it would be fun to chew up your nice new pair of shoes. So what can you do to solve the problem?

First of all, you can prevent our dogs from chewing non-dog items by keeping them all out of his reach. You can make sure to put our shoes away on a shelf when we get home. Or to put away all of your socks in the place he can't get to. If your dog likes paper, pick up a couple of trash cans with lids to keep him from getting at any Kleenex or napkins. If you need to, don't be afraid to use a crate for your dog while he is learning what he can, and can't, chew on — just put his favorite toys (such as a stuffed bone or Kong) in his crate when you leave. And remember: a tired dog is a well behaved dog! Before you leave in the morning, take your dog to the park, go for a jog, or even play fetch in the house — get him running and panting any way you can.

You also want to teach your dog what he's allowed to chew on by providing plenty of legal alternatives. Have a good variety of types and textures of toys for your dog to play with and chew on. He will be less likely to get bored with what he has and more likely to find a fun toy to play with. Also, notice what your dog likes to chew. If he tends to chew on socks or gloves, make sure he has a nice plush (but durable) toy that he loves. If he starts to devour the baseboards in your home, get him a nice hard stuffed bone or an antler to chew on. You can use they toys (especially the plush ones) to play games like fetch or Tug of War to get him interested in the new toys — and to tire him out!

To help him learn what he can, and cannot, chew on you will want to keep a sharp eye on him so you can interrupt him when he goes for something he shouldn't then refocus him on one of his toys. When you see him start to sniff or chew something other than his toy, simply tell him "uh-uh", stop him from chewing and offer him one of his own toys. If you take a minute to play with him with his toy, he'll turn his focus to his own toy more often. By using these three steps, you will be well on your way to teaching your dog what he can, and more importantly can't, chew on!

If you notice that your dog primarily chews while you are gone, or tends towards more destructive chewing, it might be a sign of a larger issue. If you have questions or are concerned please give us a call at (617) 233-5496!

To learn more about Solving Problem Behaviors, check out Zen Dog Training Online!

Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/francapicc/

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Red Light, Green Light.

Meet Jayden... again!

In our follow up session with Jayden, we were pleased to discover how much progress he and his owner had made. Jayden's owner was now armed with the knowledge of how to handle his dog's overzealousness and their walks were more enjoyable. Jayden's owner was planning a trip out of town and would be leaving Jayden in the care of a good friend. She wanted us to show her friend how to properly walk Jayden on the leash.

Jayden and his owner were in the habit of playing a little game we like to call Red Light, Green Light. This game involves halting the walk when the dog pulls on the leash and rewarding the dog for a loose leash by continuing the walk after the dog has ceased pulling.


Outside with all it's sights, sounds and smells is far more interesting then what ever commands we are blabbing at our dogs. In times like these you'll find that actions speak louder than words. With consistency and lots of practice Jayden came to realize that the only way he got to go for a long walk was to pay attention to the movements and pace of the person walking him. During the winter when sidewalks are good and icy, this can be especially important.


For more details on games like Red Light, Green Light, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Drama Diva Queen.

Meet Omar... again!


When we last visited Omar he was fresh out of Puppy Kindergarten and making the most of it. His owner was having a particularly hard time not giving Omar too much attention. We initially showed Omar's owner how to ignore obnoxious behavior and how to teach Omar bite inhibition. Over time, Omar decided to get a bit pushy on walks. Since our first visit, Omar picked up a bad habit of leash- and playbiting.


Remember it is a very natural tendency for a young dog to use their mouth! Therefore it is up to you to teach your dog that playbiting humans can really hurt. We initially showed Omar's owner the game Taking Treats Gently but now it seemed that Omar's owner needed help with a good clear way to let Omar know his behavior was unacceptable.


Creating a noise such as "Eh!" or "Ahh-ahh" can help identify to your dog what you don't like. Saying that word when the playbiting takes place and removing all attention will deter your dog from doing it again. We call this game Drama Diva Queen. Dogs over 5 months should be held to very high standards and absolutely no teeth on a human should be tolerated. If play bitting behavior is learned it is much more difficult to train out of the dog. You may need some help from a Zen Dog Trainer on some advanced playbiting solution.


For information on Drama Diva Queen and how to stop puppy playbiting visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

One of the Many Uses of The Name Game.

Meet Karma!


Karma is a fluffy doe-eyed Havanese. He is absolutely adorable and as you can imagine a magnet for attention. Karma shares a home with five humans in a large high-rise. There's never a shortage of willing participants to lavish attention on him. At times there can be a lot of unpredictable activity in the home which can be very overwhelming for a dog like this. In the last month he's resorted to barking at even the slightest stirring, and in a multi-level apartment complex this is a disturbance which later can lead to serious consequences for his owners.


With a household this large and this busy, it can be an epic challenge to get everyone on the same page. Without a steady schedule, it can be difficult for Karma to feel safe and secure in his surroundings. When a dog feels insecure, there are many ways in which he might act out. Left uncorrected, this could lead to other more drastic behaviors. Before things got too out of control, Karma had to learn that barking was not the way to solve his problem.


We introduced many games to help not only build up Karma's confidence, but also to include every member of the family. It can get pretty confusing for a dog living in a busy environment, so we wanted to make sure that Karma get some clarity. One one the games we played with Karma was the Name Game. Name Game has multiple applications such as teaching Karma to come to us for the exchange of a treat. This game would prove very useful when strangers appeared at the door. Instead of barking Karma could play this game and he could play it with every member of the family.


For more information about the various applications of techniques like Name Game, visit Zen Dog Training Online.

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Jolly Talk.

Meet Bella!


Bella is a two-year-old Yorkie/Jack Russell cross who had lived with two other families before moving in with her current owners. In her newest home she was so fearful of strangers and loud noises that it had resulted in her owners completely abstaining from actual walks. Bella would panic and pull violently towards the house on a regular walk. She even began barking at the construction going on at the neighbors. She was simply terrified of the world outside of the house.


When dogs are subjected to a lot of inconsistency, they often lack a sense of security with their surroundings. Desensitizing a dog from things that seem scary is a way to help acclimate them to big changes. Bella's owners were asked to bring Bella outside to a section of the neighborhood that felt tolerable to her and just sit. As Bella began to get anxious and nervous her owner's were instructed to use what we call Jolly Talk.


Jolly Talk is basically using a calm but confident tone to say things to your dog like "It's fine, Buddy" or "Relax." Using Jolly Talk with random treats helped Bella to build a positive association with the outside world. When desensitizing a dog you must be very careful not to push the dog over threshold. This mean that you want to start out with something simple and work on that until your dog no longer shows signs of fear or nervousness rather than get your poor pooch in over their heads.


For more information on Jolly Talk, visit Zen Dog Training Online.